S W. PELOPONNESE: METHONI FINIKOUNDA KORONI


[PICS at foot of page; under "Scribblings"]


Messenia is the "Empty Quarter".  I spent a week in this stunningly beautiful, sometimes stark region, and hardly ever saw a soul!  Believe me, this area is remote!  Just hill after mountain after undulating hill and mountain, with wall-to-wall olive groves, bushes, shrubs and cypresses.  And dotted with peaceful, picturesque villages.


I visited as I was keen to see the Venetian-style towns of Methoni and Koroni and to visit the castles there.  I was not disappointed.  The towns are fabulous; especially Koroni, which cascades down the hillside from the castle to the lovely, taverna-lined waterfront.


The surprise package, though, was the quiet, relatively unsophisticated fishing village resort of Finikounda, where I stayed.  Wow!  Terrific sandy beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and the tavernas were amongst the very best I have experienced anywhere.  They line the waterfront and some of the backstreets.  They are no-frills family establishments catering with an eye to the Greek visitors who make up the bulk of the visitors at any one time.  The Greeks know what they want and what they are prepard to pay, so the food is traditional with local specialities.  And the prices are pre-Euro!  I promise!  A fantastic meal for two with starters, main courses, psomi, ke ena miso litro krassi spitiko will put you back less than €20!


A car is necessary if you wish to explore the "interior".  I hired a car for two days as local transport is almost non-existent.  On the first of the days I did a "circular" trip to Methoni, Pylos, Voidikilia, Kazarma, Petalidi, Hrani, and back via Harokopia.  Off the road near Kazarma are the stunning lakes and waterfalls off Polilimnio.  Tucked away in the mountains, it is a truly picturesque place to visit.


The following day I popped into mountains and hills visiting small villages where just a couple of souls sleepily sit around at the pavement kafeneia.  Tucked away in a valley in this area is the thousand-year old Holy Monastery of Ag Theodoron.  Surely one of the most peaceful locations to be found anywhere.  Just the sound of cicadas....and silence!


Then it was down to the coast to the delightfully sleepy Koroni with its magnificent castle.  The ancient castle is interesting in that it houses within its walls houses which are still lived in, as well as a neat-as-a-pin convent.  A visit to the castle is an experience not to be missed.  The waterfront in Koroni is lined with lovely tavernas and ouzeries.  Together with the colourful fishing boats idling in the harbour, a colourful and serene scene is painted for the visitor.  [It was here, at the harbour, that I was awarded JS Honorary Membership of the Limenika Soma.  See the pic of me at the "office" wearing my new uniform!]


Finikounda. . . . .ssshhh.... don't say it too loudly!   Keep it to yourself!  A little piece of paradise where you can spend your days doing nothing....slowly.  Laze on the beach, catch some snorkelling or windsurfing, enjoy a calamari lunch at a waterside tav, take an afternoon siesta, followed by a late afternoon frappe and game of backgammon at Almyro Glyko [one of the nicest cafe-bars I have ever been to!  It's right on the beach]  Great drinks, super(discreet) music, and the friendliest,  most pleasant staff you'll ever come across.  It wins the Cafe Centrale International Gold Award for Excellence!


Then a sundowner ouzo at Akrogiali at the harbour, followed by a late supper at To Steki or Vennetiko.  At both the food was superb, and poli, poli loyikos.  And then nightcaps! 


[Special Instruction: For a complete recovery from depressing UK life and weather: repeat above routine SLOWLY for every day of your stay!]


There it is!   This was for me the real soul, and warm heart of Greece!


PICS BELOW.....click on pic to enlarge [Keep scrolling....there are 42 pics!]


Mrs Papadopoulous, Doyen of Finikounda
Mrs Papadopoulous, Doyen of Finikounda
Finikounda town beach
Finikounda town beach
Beach taverna. Finikounda
Beach taverna. Finikounda
Backstreet. Finikounda
Backstreet. Finikounda
Fishing boats. Finikounda
Fishing boats. Finikounda
Finikounda. Harbour and beach
Finikounda. Harbour and beach
Sidestreet
Sidestreet
AG Cafe Bar.  Finikounda
AG Cafe Bar. Finikounda
AG Cafe Bar.  Finikounda
AG Cafe Bar. Finikounda
AG Cafe Bar.  Finikounda
AG Cafe Bar. Finikounda
Town beach.  Finikounda
Town beach. Finikounda
Anemomilos beach.  Finikounda
Anemomilos beach. Finikounda
Sidestreet.  Finikounda
Sidestreet. Finikounda
Benji, on Sapienza Island
Benji, on Sapienza Island
Methoni from Sapienza Island
Methoni from Sapienza Island
House.  Finikounda
House. Finikounda
Methoni.  Town from castle
Methoni. Town from castle
Lighthouse.  Methoni Castle
Lighthouse. Methoni Castle
Methoni Castle
Methoni Castle
Street.  Methoni
Street. Methoni
Pavement trees.  Methoni
Pavement trees. Methoni
Voidikilia
Voidikilia
Voidikilia.  Beach through Heads
Voidikilia. Beach through Heads
Polilimnia
Polilimnia
Polilimnia
Polilimnia
Polilimnia
Polilimnia
Rural scene.  Nr. Koroni
Rural scene. Nr. Koroni
Rural scene.  Nr. Koroni
Rural scene. Nr. Koroni
Ag. Theodoron Moni
Ag. Theodoron Moni
Ag. Theodoron Moni
Ag. Theodoron Moni
Local Party Office!  Koroni
Local Party Office! Koroni
Tavs.  Koroni
Tavs. Koroni
Lunch.  Koroni
Lunch. Koroni
Koroni Castle
Koroni Castle
Harbourside.  Koroni
Harbourside. Koroni
View of Koroni
View of Koroni
Backstreet.  Koroni
Backstreet. Koroni
Backstreet.  Koroni
Backstreet. Koroni
At the office!
At the office!
House inside Castle.  Koroni
House inside Castle. Koroni
Convent in Castle.  Koroni
Convent in Castle. Koroni
Waiting for Godot
Waiting for Godot