- S W. PELOPONNESE

S W. PELOPONNESE: METHONI FINIKOUNDA KORONI

[PICS at foot of page; under "Scribblings"]

Messenia is the "Empty Quarter". I spent a week in this stunningly beautiful, sometimes stark region, and hardly ever saw a soul! Believe me, this area is remote! Just hill after mountain after undulating hill and mountain, with wall-to-wall olive groves, bushes, shrubs and cypresses. And dotted with peaceful, picturesque villages.

I visited as I was keen to see the Venetian-style towns of Methoni and Koroni and to visit the castles there. I was not disappointed. The towns are fabulous; especially Koroni, which cascades down the hillside from the castle to the lovely, taverna-lined waterfront.

The surprise package, though, was the quiet, relatively unsophisticated fishing village resort of Finikounda, where I stayed. Wow! Terrific sandy beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and the tavernas were amongst the very best I have experienced anywhere. They line the waterfront and some of the backstreets. They are no-frills family establishments catering with an eye to the Greek visitors who make up the bulk of the visitors at any one time. The Greeks know what they want and what they are prepard to pay, so the food is traditional with local specialities. And the prices are pre-Euro! I promise! A fantastic meal for two with starters, main courses, psomi, ke ena miso litro krassi spitiko will put you back less than €20!

A car is necessary if you wish to explore the "interior". I hired a car for two days as local transport is almost non-existent. On the first of the days I did a "circular" trip to Methoni, Pylos, Voidikilia, Kazarma, Petalidi, Hrani, and back via Harokopia. Off the road near Kazarma are the stunning lakes and waterfalls off Polilimnio. Tucked away in the mountains, it is a truly picturesque place to visit.

The following day I popped into mountains and hills visiting small villages where just a couple of souls sleepily sit around at the pavement kafeneia. Tucked away in a valley in this area is the thousand-year old Holy Monastery of Ag Theodoron. Surely one of the most peaceful locations to be found anywhere. Just the sound of cicadas....and silence!

Then it was down to the coast to the delightfully sleepy Koroni with its magnificent castle. The ancient castle is interesting in that it houses within its walls houses which are still lived in, as well as a neat-as-a-pin convent. A visit to the castle is an experience not to be missed. The waterfront in Koroni is lined with lovely tavernas and ouzeries. Together with the colourful fishing boats idling in the harbour, a colourful and serene scene is painted for the visitor. [It was here, at the harbour, that I was awarded JS Honorary Membership of the Limenika Soma. See the pic of me at the "office" wearing my new uniform!]

Finikounda. . . . .ssshhh.... don't say it too loudly! Keep it to yourself! A little piece of paradise where you can spend your days doing nothing....slowly. Laze on the beach, catch some snorkelling or windsurfing, enjoy a calamari lunch at a waterside tav, take an afternoon siesta, followed by a late afternoon frappe and game of backgammon at Almyro Glyko [one of the nicest cafe-bars I have ever been to! It's right on the beach] Great drinks, super(discreet) music, and the friendliest, most pleasant staff you'll ever come across. It wins the Cafe Centrale International Gold Award for Excellence!

Then a sundowner ouzo at Akrogiali at the harbour, followed by a late supper at To Steki or Vennetiko. At both the food was superb, and poli, poli loyikos. And then nightcaps!

[Special Instruction: For a complete recovery from depressing UK life and weather: repeat above routine SLOWLY for every day of your stay!]

There it is! This was for me the real soul, and warm heart of Greece!

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