SAMOS: "Scribblings" and PHOTOGALLERY [Pics at bottom of page. Click to enlarge]
I returned to Samos in 2006 for the third time. I was planning to drop in on Fourni as well. Didn't make it though, as the day-tripper boat was fully-booked on the day that I had chosen. What the heck! I'll do it tou xronou!
This ocassion I spent much of my time in Ormos Marathokampos on the south-west coast of the island. It is the quintessential picture-postcard fishing village. Not much to do except enjoy long, lazy lunches and suppers at the string of delightful tavernas and ouzeries strung out along the harbourfront. And, of course, spend the rest of the time lazing on the village beach.
On the first Saturday there I went to the Ormos wine festival, which is held every year in August. Terrific! Bouzouki music, traditional dancers, as well as dancing for the assembled attendees. For 5 Euros you get a special mug, which you could fill as often as you liked. And not a drunk in sight!
On a number of occasions a chum drove me around the tiny, picturesque mountain villages where time seems to have stood still. We sat in village squares sipping frappes and observing the world pass lazily by and watched old-timers at the kafeneions playing tavli and catching up with the gossip! Not a care in the world. Enchanting!
My chum has a penchant for discovering fabulously situated tavernas; be they in the hills overlooking the sea, or down dusty tracks at the water's edge. She lives on the island and makes it her business to know where they are; particularly if they are frequented by locals. On such was at Pefkos where they have live traditional music at lunchtime on Sundays. Needless to say we expeienced yet another of our 4-hour lunches; chilling whilst listening to the melodious sounds of Stavros on the guitar and bouzouki. Splendid!
Great fun was, on one of the days, going on a boat trip to the tiny, close-by islet of Samiopoula. We dived for urchins, which we had as a starter to our beach barbecue.
A higlight of the stay in Ormos, though, was a hazardous trip along a long, winding, dusty and dodgy track to the Taverna at the End of the World. What a spot! Really did feel like the end of the world! If I was never going to get back to civilization, it didn't really matter, as I had the most incredible meal in the most magnificent surroundings. And Andreas was a lovely host. After the tav had emptied in the mid-afternoon he gave us some lateral-thinking challenges. Ian (boss of Laskarina, who was kindly treating us to lunch), frustrated and tormented Andreas by solving all his challenges! We get to have lunch on the house next time we go . . . .If we have the nerve to stomach the dirt-track to get there! But, what a treat the experience was. Not to be missed!
Samos continues to be a delight. For me it ticks all the boxes. Lovely beaches, stunning interior, great people. Samos Town is a vibrant working town. Ano Vathi, the Old Town above Samos is so pretty and great for exploring on foot. And it has one or two really super ouzeries.
Pythagorio has a great harbour waterfront and is touristy without being tacky. ( Drinks seemed a tad expensive, though. Mind you, we did have a couple of cockails!). Kokkari old waterfront is one of the prettiest you'll find anywhere. But, the jewel in the crown is Ormos. The pics in the PhotoGallery say it all. Terrific!
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